In April 2001 I went on a city-hopping tour of the south-eastern US, visiting a couple of net.friends along the way. I went to Washington DC, Lexington Kentucky, Memphis and Chattanooga Tennessee, New Orleans Louisiana, and Savannah Georgia. Here are some pictures from the 250 or so I kept...
Welcome to America. Your hotel is next door to the Algerian Embassy. Which is in a bad way. |
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You remember that American spy plane that got its wings clipped somewhere in the vicinity of China, and the Chinese wouldn't give the crew back for a bit? Several Americans didn't like this. They stood around waving signs and shouting at the Chinese Embassy. Which was over the road from my hotel. |
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My first morning in town. Grey, cold, and generally just like home. You think those kids are running along the back of the line to appear at both ends of the picture (it's a rotating camera), but actually they're just trying to keep warm. |
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When the sun came out in the afternoon, I headed straight for Arlington cemetary to look at Robert E Lee's house, JFK's tomb and so on. I figured it might be my only chance of good weather that week. |
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By the end of the day I was gazing back across the Potomac at Washington, basking in the sun on the back of my head. A few hours later, I had a scalp-shrinking case of sunburn. |
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In Washington, I mostly looked at museums, art galleries and monuments. The suburbs of DC maybe the crack and murder capital of the world, but the city center is the polished showcase of its richest country -- policed by the boys in blue, the secret service and gun-toting park rangers in the monuments. I didn't photograph the galleries much but I got my share of monuments. Here's the canteen in the National Gallery of Art, which is under a plaza and has a view of a fountain/waterfall from below. |
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The Lincoln Memorial, which I've always admired from afar. |
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A face evolved specifically for stately monuments. |
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Quite why this was stuck to the wall in the middle of the FDR memorial I haven't figured out, but it looked pretty cool. |
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I'll spare you my Vietnam Wall pictures, which suck pretty bad, and give you half the Korea veterans' memorial instead. |
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The leaning monument of Washington. Closed. Just like home. |
After DC, I went to visit my friend and fellow hi-fi/camera geek Joe for the weekend in Lexington Kentucky. Joe and his wife Suzanne are of the Canadian persuasion, but they recently started working at the University of Kentucky.
In between the general hi-fi geekery and showing each other lenses, we went to visit the distillery for Woodford Reserve bourbon at Versailles. The stuff certainly smelled good. |
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After the tour, Joe and I wandered around taking photos. Here's Joe with a camera that weighs slightly more than him. |
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Suzanne was obviously used to the call of the camera. |
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The next day we went and took some pix in Lexington cemetery, which is a good hunting ground. |
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By the itching of my thumb, something wicked this way comes. |
Since I was due to visit my friend Ron in Chattanooga the following weekend, I invented a circuitous route which gave me a few days in Memphis during the week. Memphis was hot and humid and generally a bit overwhelming for this Englishman, but I managed to take it easy...
Sun Studios, the "Birthplace of Rock and Roll". This is where Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, BB King et al got off the ground. It's also where I discovered that my (too) rarely used flashgun doesn't work the way I thought it did... |
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Alfred's bar, Beale Street, Memphis. Good place to avoid the heat. |
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Graceland, just out of town. A surprisingly modest building. |
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Any photo geeks out there will know that shooting colour film indoors is hard work. It takes a yellow tinge under tungsten light, green under fluorescent, magenta under metal halides etc etc. Adjusting the scans in Photoshop is no fun when you're colour blind. Even when you master the technicalities, you tend to get pretty muted colours anyway. I'm often tempted to say sod it and just shoot black and white indoors.
But then you hit a shot like this. |
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They keep the drapes drawn in Graceland, which gives the place interesting light.
This is presumably to stop the fabrics fading. |
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Or maybe it's to protect you from seeing them at full brightness. |
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I think I'd get nightmares sleeping in this bed. |
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But I have to admit that I liked the pink Cadillac. |
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I met Elvis. |
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He told me to turn the record over on his turntable. |
Greyhound buses are basically alright. OK, so I shared the journey from Kentucky (a powerhouse of the US prison industry) to Louisville with a guy who just got out from a ten stretch. OK, so the bus from Memphis to Chattanooga (trains don't go there) was 2 hours late thanks to a traffic pile up in Nashville and a monsoon on the interstate. OK I had to listen to a mad preacher tell everybody how he hated the Utah Jazz on my last leg. At least they didn't sell my ticket to somebody else like US Airways in Pittsburgh, or deny that I'd just arrived on one of their planes when I went to check in for a connection like Delta in Atlanta.
I went to Tennessee to see my friend Ron and his good lady Jessica. Ron's a stray Brit, a pathologist, a bon-viveur of wit and sophistication, and yet another photo/hi-fi geek
The Tennessee Aquarium, in downtown Chattanooga. Yood chance to play with my perspective correction lens. |
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A hillside sculpture garden in the "Arts District". Every American city seems to have an Arts District -- if they haven't developed one spontaneously (San Francisco), the local authorities pressure wash a couple of brick buildings in a run down warehouse zone and put signs saying "Arts District" on them (New Orleans).
But these places are generally quite pleasant, and I do remember having pretty good sandwiches and iced latté in this one. |
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Ron lives in a sort of pathologist's compound. He shares a lake with two other houses, only the other two haven't been built yet. So he gets the lake and geese to himself. |
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The geese had fresh goslings in my honour. |
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Ron and Jessica took me up the Ococee River, which is in the historic Tennessee Valley Authority system of dams and reservoirs and so on. This giant hydroelectric and irrigation scheme was the symbolic beginning of the "new deal" -- big government, federal spending and so on -- in the US.
Here's one of the reservoirs... |
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... and one of the dams ... |
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... and somebody else enjoying the scene ... |
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... and the algae enjoying life at the top of the dam. |
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This river was the site of the canoeing events for the Atlanta Olympics. They built some pretty convincing synthetic rocks and used the dam system to provide constant flow. It's still a big canoeing and rafting center, though the season wasn't really under way when we got there. |
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Jessica with blue raft. |
"You'll hate New Orleans" said the 90 year old lady sat next to me on the Greyhound, who was on her way back there from Pittsburgh, "It's filthy and crime-ridden and there are no morals". "You'll hate New Orleans" said Jessica in Chattanooga, without specifying reasons, "You should scrap it and go to Savannah for the extra week".
Well... The tickets were booked the motels bought, so I went to New Orleans. To tell the truth, I was a little disappointed with the place -- it's not that there's anything wrong with it, there's just not much there. You wander through the French Quarter for a bit, look at some elegant buildings in the Garden District, hop on a paddle steamer for a couple of hours, visit the overground cemetery in a the safety of a large tour group and that's about it. I went for a week when a long weekend would have done. It gave me plenty of time to realize that all the jazz bands know the same twelve Louis Armstrong numbers.
But it was OK, I had a good time -- you can eat and drink rather well in New Orleans.
Café du Monde. The world's first coffee stand. With non-stop brass. |
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Over the road, a typical bit of New Orleans wrought iron. These add on balconies provide outdoor living for the residents and shade for pedestrians. |
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There are three sorts of street musician in New Orleans.
The professionals, who do it for money. |
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The amateurs, who do it for fun. |
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And the slave labour, who do it because they're told to. |
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St Louis Cathedral, in Jackson Square (after Vuksanovic). |
OK, so I went to Savannah after watching "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil", same as everybody else. But I liked Savannah a lot, it turned out to be my favorite place on the trip. It is one happy relaxed town. There's not much else to say about it -- just a really nice place to be.